Firstly, I am not a doctor (but I play one on TV). Therefore, I am not qualified to give . . . → Read More: General Medical Information]]>

Firstly, I am not a doctor (but I play one on TV). Therefore, I am not qualified to give any advice on health or medicine.

This section is just a list of things I found out about travel and health whilst reading about various countries around the world. It also serves as a checklist of things to do before I go travelling and the order in which I need to do them.

For all travel-related health advice consult an expert (your doctor or travel clinic, for example). You can also read books and browse websites, but remember that health advice changes all the time, epidemics come and go, new diseases appear, drugs become resistant, more effective vaccines are developed, and so on. And some of those websites may just be plain wrong.

It is a good idea to become familiar, in general terms, with what are the possible health risks in each country you intend to visit. Some of these risks should not be taken lightly but, on the other hand, you shouldn’t allow the fear of health problems to put you off travelling.

It is all a question of perspective. Whilst you hear about all kinds of horrible diseases in the news, like Ebola and Plague, travellers don’t get them. In fact, one of the deadliest viruses of all is found in the developed world and is far more widespread.

That said, in most countries in the developed world you will probably not have any health problems at all, just those you get at home, such as coughs and colds, diarrhea and constipation, and hangovers. Everywhere else in the world the worst you will probably get is a stomach upset from unfamiliar microbes.

As stated above, consult an expert, follow their advice, and take sensible precautions. Knowledge and prevention will greatly reduce the risks of falling ill anywhere in the world.

The Main Health Risks for Travellers

The main cause by far of preventable deaths and injuries among travellers is accidents. These include being run over by, or crashing in, a moving vehicle.

Thus the best advice is to do what you do back home; always wear a seat belt (or helmet on a bike), always look both ways before crossing a street, at the same time standing well back from the curb.



Studies have shown that around 50% of deaths while travelling are from heart attacks (which you probably would have had at home anyway), another 20% or so due to injuries, with the rest made up of such things as cancer, suicides and homicides.

Only around 1% of deaths are due to the infectious diseases and illnesses listed elsewhere on this website. Also, most deaths while travelling occur in Europe (where most people travel), and not in developing countries.

On Being Your Own Doctor

When you are at home and get a sniffle or cough you can either ignore it or hope it will go away. Others may try to treat it or at least ameliorate the symptoms. Doing this while travelling in the developing world, however, can have serious consequences.

You should never ignore symptoms or try to diagnose yourself (or anyone else) while travelling. Seek professional advice as soon as you can. Doctors in developing countries may not seem as well-qualified as those back home but they are usually familiar with local health problems, and the knowledge base they use to diagnose will be far more extensive than yours which will probably have been gleaned from books or the Internet.

After getting advice from a health professional, try to get to the best care available whenever you can, even if it means travelling long distances.

Upon Returning Home

If you feel ill after returning from the developing world, go and see your doctor and let them know you have just come back from there. You may be referred to a tropical disease specialist. Some people get tests to see if they might have picked up something, even if they have no symptoms.

One question that springs to mind about clothing is, is there a difference between that which you wear at . . . → Read More: Clothing]]>

One question that springs to mind about clothing is, is there a difference between that which you wear at home and that which you wear when travelling?

Certainly, if you live in the UK or the USA and you are travelling to Europe for a week, then you can just wear what you normally wear. In fact, you might look out of place if you don’t walk around in jeans, tshirt, a hoodie and running shoes.

Travelling further afield does involve some additional considerations, however, mainly to do with the varied climates you will encounter. But there are also cultural differences of which to be aware.

The best advice, wherever you go or whatever you choose to wear, is to try to look relatively neat and tidy. Also, especially if you are female, try not to wear clothes that are too revealing (showing skin other than your face and hands). Even if you think you should be able to dress however you want, not only is it objectionable and sometimes rude in some countries to do so, it is often unsafe and can put you in real danger.

Dress neatly and consider the environment and culture you are in and you will find that people will think better of you, will talk to you more often, and even offer you their hospitality. You will get fewer hassles, both from the locals and from officials such as customs and border police.

Also bear in mind that many religious buildings require skirts for women, trousers for men, (and sometimes long sleeves for both), and that you remove your shoes.

Tempting though it may be, in some places it helps not to try to dress like the locals, as they connect religious and/or cultural significance to what they wear.



The main criteria when choosing clothing for travel include whether or not it provides sufficient protection from the elements, and its lightness and compactness due to your space and carrying considerations.

In hot climates your clothes mainly function as sun and insect protection. Long sleeves and collars on loose-fitting shirts, baggy trousers, and a hat with a wide brim (at least 3 inches, 7.5cm) will work better than skimpy tops and shorts for keeping you cool and protected.

Jeans are not a good idea as they are hot to wear, hard to wash, slow to dry, and heavy to carry.

In the cold it is best to layer clothing and look for fabrics that are wicking, insulating, and wind blocking. The new, thin, purpose-made synthetic fabrics are best, worn in layers. They are light, wash well, dry with body heat and are most efficient in terms of weight, bulk and functionality.

A windproof coat or rain shell, long underwear, insulating layers of clothing, gloves, heavy socks, and hats are essential in the cold.

If possible, try to get clothing that has a dual purpose, but without compromising. Find things that can be used both in the daytime and the evening. Keep it simple including the colours. Black, navy, and white are good choices.

A rough guide is to take three outfits, including the one you are wearing. This way you wear one, can wash one, and have a spare set. If everything mixes or matches you should be fine for a long time. If you need a change, or if things wear out, you can always buy replacements (cheaply, usually) wherever you are. Also, clothing you buy overseas will be appropriate for the climate or conditions in which you find yourself.

The next few pages list things to consider when choosing travel clothes, working from the inside out, top to bottom.

One of the most useful pieces of advice I ever got about packing for travelling is that you should . . . → Read More: Bags]]>

One of the most useful pieces of advice I ever got about packing for travelling is that you should decide before you leave what kind of trip you are going on. This may seem obvious but there are some items that you simply don’t need on certain types of travel.

For example, an extended vacation to the less developed parts of the world should not be considered as a camping trip. You take a backpack with you as your would when going hiking in the woods or camping, but the similarities pretty much end there.

You won’t need a tent, stove, pots, freeze-dried foods, sleeping bag or a rolled-up sleeping pad.

Certainly, in Europe you can save some money by camping out and cooking your own food on a stove, but this isn’t necessary in other parts of the world where accommodation and food is cheap.

For the cost of a good tent and sleeping bag you can live for months (including meals and accommodation) in the less developed parts of the world.

Plus, if you do take loads of gear there is always the temptation to try to use it all just because you brought it with you, camping out and cooking where it isn’t necessary (outside hostels, for example).

This way you tend to isolate yourself from the locals, trying to reproduce your home life, instead of finding out what it is like to live in the country in which you are staying.

You can always rent, borrow or even buy camping equipment if absolutely necessary or if you find you need it when you arrive, but for the number of times you will actually use it it is just not worth bringing it from home and hauling it around the whole time.

And anyway, you won’t find many designated camp grounds in the less developed parts of the world, plus, you can’t just leave a tent around to go exploring the cities (as you would in Europe) as it probably won’t be there when you return.

As well as the possibility of having it stolen, there is also the problem of losing or breaking something. You may spend hundreds on equipment you won’t use, have to carry around for months, and then leave it somewhere and never see it again, or it breaks when you most need it.

Additionally, the problem with a lot of camping gear is that whilst it will last for the few weeks every year when you go on vacation, it won’t last so long on an extended trip. Hard use and the passage of time will take its toll, and if it isn’t up to the job it may need repairing or even replacing.

All that said, if you are going trekking in remote areas, far way from shops and villages, then there is certain equipment you will need, good hiking boots, waterproofs, emergency gear, etc. And for other types of trip (e.g. mountaineering, climbing), good, reliable, functional (and heavy!) gear is essential. Look for items that are made from sturdy materials that are easy to maintain (with locally bought parts, preferably).

You won’t need as many things on a business trip where you will be staying in hotels and eating out in restaurants. You can leave behind universal sink plugs, shampoo and soap, hair dryers, etc., as you can find all of these at the hotel and, if not, within a short walk at the local store.

And on a two-week beach holiday you really just need swim suits and flip flops, plus a few outfits for the evenings. For both business trips and short holidays you won’t be doing much walking around with your bag either, maybe from the train to the plane then from the airport to the taxi, then into the hotel, and you can always get someone to carry it for you in all these cases (if you can afford it!).

Selection criteria

All of the above considerations will determine what kind of bag you will want to take.

They fall into a few categories; backpacking (including mountaineering and hiking), business and urban travel (including 1-2 week beach/resort vacations), and world/extended travel.

You can get one bag to cover all of the above but you will always end up compromising (I have three bags, one for each kind of trip I go on).

When buying a bag for long-term travel you should consider the following criteria:

Size

The size of the bag you buy will determine how much weight you will be carrying around for your whole trip.

You should buy the bag first then decide what to take, not the other way around.



A good idea is to try to buy one that is ‘airline carry-on’ size. You may never travel on a plane with it but you will find that it fits under seats in buses or in the luggage racks on trains and other small places.

They say that there are two kinds of luggage: carry-on and lost. So if you do end up taking your bag on the plane you will also ensure that you save time at the airport, plus it is far more secure (and convenient) to keep your bag with you at all times.

The emphasis, however, should be on trying to travel light, not to avoid checking bags on flights. You are not trying to pack as much as possible into one small bag, rather to learn to manage living with the things you can pack in a single bag. Also, airline carry-on is probably the maximum size you should consider carrying (smaller is better).

Finally, you will be the one who will carry it most of the time so buy it according to your needs, not the airlines’.

The official FAA carry-on size is 45 linear inches (115 cm), determined by adding the height, width and length. So a bag that is 22 x 14 x 9 inches or 56 x 36 x 23 cm (equal to 2880 cubic inches or 47 liters) should qualify.

It should be no larger than this, which means no pockets sticking out further, no other bags hanging off, and no big bulges in the middle or top.

Airlines are constantly changing the carry-on restrictions, so check before leaving.

Here is a rough guide to various restrictions on carry-on bags (number of items allowed (the second item usually being a purse, camera or laptop), size and weight). This list is probably out of date so check with airlines first and don’t rely on it, it is just used as an illustration of the variation in airline allowances.

TOD = ‘Total Outside Dimensions’

Also these things also dependson who you deal with at check-in and what mood they are in, so even if your bag complies with the regulations you still may not be able to carry it onto the plane. Smaller planes may also make you check your bag due to limited cabin space.

Construction

There are two basic types of luggage construction; soft-sided made from high-tech fabrics (an example of which is shown left), and hard-shelled made from fibreglass, hard plastics, or even metal (shown right).

The soft-sided bags are usually made of industrial nylon, such as ballistic nylon or Cordura. You can get cheaper nylon bags made from inferior fabrics but they will be heavier or thinner and less durable.

Both Cordura and ballistic nylon have their advantages and disadvantages. Cordura is more abrasion resistant, while ballistic has higher tear strength. Ballistic is smoother but doesn’t dye well so usually comes in black. Cordura has the rough feel of cotton canvas and can be dyed easily and therefore comes in different colours. Cordura also make a ballistic nylon.

Hard-shelled bags are heavier and, surprisingly, are not as good at coping with long trips. They are however, more secure as there are no zips to break into and they can’t be slashed with a knife.

A soft bag will not get damaged by bumps and knocks as much as a hard bag, and because they yield (even a small amount) they can also be squashed into smaller and more uneven spaces.

Make sure the zips are good quality. There are two types; chain and coil. Chain-type zips are stronger, keep out dirt and sand better, and are harder for prying fingers to break into, but they are more expensive as a result (but worth it). Look for bags with YKK brand zips if possible.

Design

Try to get a straight-sided bag instead of one with curves, as the former gives a greater internal volume.

Compression straps are very useful (both inside and out). External pockets can either be useful (for quick access to small objects) or a security risk (when in crowded train compartments).

Carrying straps need to be comfortable and sturdy but unless you are hiking or walking long distances you won’t need anything too complicated.

Wheels are not usually a good idea for bags for long-term trips, the mechanism that allows a bag to be wheeled is very heavy (a few pounds minimum), and unless you spend all your time in airports and hotel you will never use them.

Appearance

This is a purely personal choice, but remember that an expensive looking pack may attract unwanted attention in poorer countries, whereas a plain looking pack may not attract a second glance.

Choose dull or neutral colours if you can, and don’t hang loads of expensive gear on the outside.

There are really only two types of bag you can consider when going on a trip; a backpack or . . . → Read More: Types of bag]]>

There are really only two types of bag you can consider when going on a trip; a backpack or a suitcase.

If you are just going to be carrying a bag between cars, planes, taxis and hotels (for example, on a 2-week vacation or on a business trip), then a suitcase will be as good as any other bag.

For walking any distance a suitcase is not recommended at all, as the weight of the bag and contents is carried using the upper body only, and the weight is also off-centre. Even if they have wheels you won’t get many opportunities to use them.

A backpack is far better as most of the load is (or at least, should be) carried by the hips (not the shoulders as you may think).

There are three types of backpack; external-frame, internal-frame, and frameless.

External-frame backpacks

Very popular in the past, but far less common than the internal-framed type these days.

Almost all of the weight is transferred to the hip belt and high above the centre of gravity, which means they are good for hiking on regular trails, but the size and shape can make things awkward when on buses, trains, etc.

Internal-frame backpacks

The internal-frame pack is similar to the external except that frame is inside the pack. The arrangement of straps and hip-belt mean that most of the load is transferred away from the shoulders and onto the hips.

They are also smaller and are easier to manoeuvre on buses and trains.

Most are top-loading, enabling gear to be stuffed into the bag and pushed down, making them very efficient. However, finding specific items may involve emptying the whole bag, unless you plan well when packing.

However, some come with an abundance of external pockets which makes it easier to store and get to commonly used items (and for light-fingered thieves to get to).

Frameless backpacks, daypacks and duffel bags

It is possible to travel with bare minimum of gear using a daypack (similar to student book packs). This is a small, frameless backpack with just shoulder straps. This means, of course, that all the weight is carried on the shoulders.

You can also use a cheap duffel bag in the same way (nylon, not the heavy canvas army type). This is light and convenient but won’t hold much and if it does it won’t be easy to carry for long distances.

Travel packs

There is another type of pack which has become more popular recently; the travel pack.

These look like a cross between a soft-shelled suitcase and a backpack and are built specifically for travel. They are made of heavy duty nylon (Cordura and ballistic) and have a zip-open main body for easy access.

Most have internal frames, as well as straps and hip belts which can be zipped away behind a nylon panel which makes them look like a regular suitcase, with the addition of a handle or strap so they can be carried like one. Some also have external pockets.

The suspension system is not quite as good as an internal-framed backpack, but then you have to decide if you are going to be hiking in the jungle, climbing mountains wearing it, or just walking around a city for an hour or two or from the train station to your hostel.

Some packs come with zip-off daypacks which attach to the front, but these may not be necessary as you can always buy a separate daypack. Also, such a pack will move the centre of gravity further back (especially if you fill it with heavy gear).

My personal choice of travel pack for business and short trips where I will be staying mainly in hotels is the Victorinox wheeled backpack. I am not sure they make this model any more but you can get something similar.

This is exactly airline carry-on size and is made of ballistic Cordura nylon fabric. The handle you use when wheeling the bag through the terminal or hotel lobby rotates 360 degrees and is very comfortable to use.

The shoulder straps and hip belt are hidden behind a zip-away panel and when used they transfer the pack’s weight to the hips and reduce stress on wearer’s back. There is a sleeping bag/boot compartment with an anti-bacterial treatment.

It comes with a front docking daypack (which makes an excellent bag on its own). This has tuck-away, padded shoulder straps with moisture wicking mesh lining, a front pocket, a spacious main compartment with audio pocket, a hydration/audio port and dual mesh water bottle pockets.

The travel pack I use when not on business or for long-term, third world travel is the MEI Voyageur (shown on the right), which meets all of the above criteria. For example, as well as being the ideal size for a carry-on bag (22×14×9 inches), it is also well-constructed, strong and very light.

Internal volume is 3000 cubic inches, about 43-48 litres. The frame is a parallel stay internal frame. The straps and padded hip belt zip away under a panel at the back when not in use. Other carrying options are a rubber side handle, and D-rings which are included for a shoulder sling.

It also has interior and exterior compression straps. The zippers are good quality and lockable. You can buy the packs directly from the manufacturer (in the USA) via their website or by emailing them by clicking here mei-legacy@netscape.com

Packing

One advantage of having straps and hip belts that zip away behind panels (as do both of the packs above) is that they are less prone to get caught in conveyor belts or other machinery at airports, or even in racks in buses and trains.

Packs that don’t have this feature will have to be prepared for travel when they aren’t being carried. This may only be a problem on the initial flight to your destination, however.

So before surrendering your bag to the airlines, try to remove, tuck away, or tie-up any straps, belts, and anything dangling which might catch in mechanisms.

Also, lock, or otherwise secure (tie with string, dental floss, etc.), all zips, pockets, etc.

Put all liquids in plastic bags to prevent them leaking everywhere if they get damaged or burst due to the cold and pressure changes in the hold.

Many tropical diseases, such as malaria, yellow fever, and Japanese encephalitis, West Nile virus, Lyme disease, are transmitted by . . . → Read More: Avoiding Insect Bites]]>

Many tropical diseases, such as malaria, yellow fever, and Japanese encephalitis, West Nile virus, Lyme disease, are transmitted by insect bites, usually through the insect’s saliva.

No antimalarial drug is 100% effective and in the case of some diseases (for example, dengue fever) there is no protection at all, so it is best to avoid getting bitten in the first place.

Luckily, insects aren’t a problem in most countries around the world, just annoying, and in those places where they are, only some of them carry diseases.

For example, there are more than 3,000 species of mosquitoes worldwide, and 420 species of the Anopheles mosquito, of which only about 70 are capable of transmitting malaria. Of those 70 species, only about 30 to 40 species are considered “good transmitters”. For each of these 30 to 40, only 5 to 10 percent of the insect population is capable of transmitting malaria.



These may seem like good odds, but the sheer numbers of the Anopheles mosquito around the world can make them appear less favourable. In parts of Africa, research has shown that some (unprotected) people suffer around 300 to 1,000 infectious bites per person per year, i.e. one to three malarious infections per day.

To get infected, you have to be bitten by a disease-carrying insect, and although it may take more than one bite from that insect to transmit the disease, you can still get infected from just one bite from one insect.

You can greatly reduce the chance of any infection by taking precautions to limit the number of times you get bitten. Even in low-risk or non-malarious areas it pays to do so, as insect bites can be irritating and sometimes painful.

When reading about and comparing repellents, insecticides and netting, remember that a lot are sold for domestic use (in the backyard at home), some just for backcountry use (in the USA), and some for use abroad.

Be careful to choose the right combination for your situation. For example, a close mesh net is ideal for keeping out tiny insects in the forests of the US but would be too hot in the tropics where a more open mesh mosquito net (treated with an insecticide) which lets in the breeze would be fine.

Clothing

One of the best ways to stop getting bitten is to reduce the amount of exposed skin by wearing long-sleeved shirts and long trousers, as well as enclosed shoes and long socks (not open sandals or flip flops).

Covering up in this way also (partially) protects against exposure to the sun.

Fabrics must be either thick or closely woven (not knit) as well as loose-fitting, as insects can bite though thin fabric or can reach your skin through tight clothing.

Luckily, loose clothing is also more comfortable in hot climates.

Also, light colors (khaki, for example) appear to be less attractive to mosquitoes.

The best shirt I have found that meets all of the above criteria is the Craghoppers Nosquito Long Sleeved Shirt. I personally have two of these (in Stone and Khaki) and they are worth every penny. Part of the ‘Bear Grylls’ range of clothing they are practical as well as very stylish. You can read more about them in the Clothing section of this website.

Craghoppers also make the best travel trousers too in the Craghoppers Kiwi Trousers. They are similar in performance to the shirt and are (justifiably) a best seller.

To deter ticks, tuck trousers into socks, and remember to inspect yourself for ticks after outdoor activities.

Spraying or soaking your clothes with an insect repellent or insecticide is also recommended (see below). The Nosquito shirt above is treated like this.

You can find anti-mosquito clothing treatments here or here.

Repellents

The next method for keeping the insects away is to use an insect repellent on your skin.

Humans and animals give off various chemicals that attract insects. Insect repellents are thought to work by blocking the stimulation of the receptors that detect these chemicals.

The most popular (and also the most effective) repellents are those which contain DEET (diethyl-meta-toluamide). Others contain oil of lemon eucalyptus, botanicals, and other chemicals (picardin) but despite their claims, these may not be as protective.

Read more about the alternatives here. There is an update to this information here. Both give recommendations for domestic (USA) use. To find information about overseas travel, read the information here.

When evaluating claims make sure they are comparing like with like (some tests use lower concentrations of DEET, for example, when they claim their product is more effective), and check which insects they protect against (some are only more effective against ticks and certain (non-malarial) mosquitoes).

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency considers DEET-based products safe when used as directed. This means they should not be used under clothing or on open cuts, wounds, or irritated skin, and shouldn’t be used with sunscreen.

Combination repellents and sunscreens are still being evaluated by the EPA, but because sunscreens are meant to be applied liberally and frequently and DEET products are used sparingly, you will inevitably end up putting on too much of one or too little of the other. Better to use separate products at the same time, applying sunscreen first, then the insect repellent.

DEET-based repellent should be applied following the manufacturer’s instructions to all exposed skin. It should also be kept away from your eyes, mouth and nasal membranes, and definitely should not be swallowed. Spray the repellent onto hands and then apply to face. You should use just enough to cover exposed skin and it should be washed off whenever safe to do so.

Even though you should not use it on your skin under clothing, many people apply it to the outside of their clothes on sleeves, collars, socks, and cuffs as additional protection.

Be aware that DEET can also melt some plastics, such as eyeglass frames, rayon, spandex, and other synthetic fabrics, and can damage leather and painted or varnished surfaces.

DEET products come in different concentrations which can be confusing. In concentrations over approximately 25%, DEET does not work better, it just lasts longer. If you are hiking or sweating a lot it will dissipate much faster and last a lot less.

Products containing 25% to 35% DEET are recommended by the CDC for adults. These will usually repel mosquitos for several hours (read the instructions), and there should be no need to reapply it more often that this. Ultrathon, made by 3M, contains 33% DEET which slowly releases the DEET for an effectiveness of up to twelve hours. Another similar product is Sawyer’s Controlled Release.

Some DEET products consist of a 100% formulation for maximum effectiveness of up to eight or ten hours. 100% DEET is probably overkill for mosquitoes, you just don’t protection for 12 or 13 hours. For most situations of casual use (and for a few fours in the morning or evening when mosquitos bite), around 25% should be fine. You can always re-apply it every few hours if you’re in the jungle, too.

There may be circumstances where constant reapplication may be impractical, however, such as where there is a rapid loss of repellent due to rain or heavy sweating. Some people also use higher concentrations when traveling to an area where there is a very high density of biting insects.

As well as being a lower concentration, Ultrathon is also absorbed less through the skin, thus making it safer than 100% DEET. In addition, it is recommended by many health care professionals. If you have sensitive skin you can get it in a spray can at a 23% concentration which lasts up to eight hours.

Insecticides

Whereas insect repellents are designed to keep insects away, insecticides stun or kill insects that come into contact with it. In this way the two methods compliment each other and should both be used (one does not replace the other). Ideally, use a combination of a DEET product on exposed skin, and wear insecticide-treated clothing.

Permethrin is a common synthetic chemical, widely used as an insecticide and as an insect repellent. It is usually applied to mosquito netting (see below) and clothes. Permanone, Coulston’s Duranon, and Sawyer’s are brand names of permethrin.

When applied to clothing by aerosol or trigger spray, Permethrin provides protection lasting up to two weeks or two washings. Clothing soaked in a Permethrin solution is effective as am insecticide for months if it is stored out of the sun.

There should be no problems using it as long as it is used according to the instructions, as it has a low toxicity, is poorly absorbed by skin, and is generally environmentally safe except that it is toxic to honey bees and other beneficial insects, fish, aquatic insects, crayfish, and shrimp.

More recently, Deltamethrin has become more popular and widely used. It is a member of one of the safest classes of pesticides. However, it is still a neurotoxin and should be treated with care. It is used by companies (e.g. Tana Netting and Travel Health Help) to manufacture long-lasting insecticidal mosquito nets.

Mosquito nets

Mosquito nets are a very useful and practical way to prevent insect bites, especially when sleeping at night. There are a number of things to look out for when buying a net.

There are basically two types, circular or rectangular. The circular type hangs from the ceiling by a string, with the net fanning out from a ring at the top and tucked tightly under the mattress on all sides. The rectangular type ties to the ceiling with four strings and hangs straight down on all sides of the bed, with the fringes again tucked under the mattress. Whichever type you choose it should be wide enough not to touch the body while sleeping.

The mesh size should be large enough for air circulation but as small as possible to keep out the mosquitos. For effective malaria protection, the mesh size that is recommended is 120-200 holes per square per inch. This will not keep out some types of sand flies, however, which can also transmit diseases to humans.

‘Noseeum’ netting is a lot finer at 500-600 holes per square inch, but the airflow is greatly restricted which can be stifling. Spraying or soaking mosquito netting in Permethrin or Deltamethrin dramatically increases effectiveness (see above). Store the net in a plastic bag to keep the permethrin effective longer.

Finally, make sure there are no gaps or holes in the netting around you and that there are no mosquitoes already inside the netting before you get inside or got to sleep.

Mosquito head nets may also be useful. Head nets alone are not enough in malarial areas, though.

Other preventative measures

Mosquitoes can bite any time. However, the peak hours of mosquito biting activity are usually at dawn and dusk, so try to reduce the amount of time you spend outdoors at these times.

You can use insecticides in the form of aerosols, vaporizers, candles, smoke spirals or others in living and, most of all, in sleeping areas. Close all doors and windows and spray the walls.

Mosquito coils are spiral-shaped candles that repel mosquitoes and other bugs with the natural chemical pyrethrum. They burn for several hours, and are useful when cooking dinner while camping, or in hotel rooms without screening.

Citronella (in the form of candles, soaps, sprays, etc.), is a natural repellent, useful in backyards in the USA but is not effective in serious biting insect areas.

Avoid wearing perfumes and aftershaves, which attract some mosquitoes. Also, for the same reason, don’t use scented soaps, shampoos, or deodorants. Unscented deodorants are available.

Mosquitoes do not attack as long as you walk quickly or if there is a breeze as they need to land on you to bite. While many hotels in the tropics lack screens, they often have fans which produce enough breeze to prevent mosquitoes from landing as long as the power holds out.

Stay in mosquito-protected rooms after twilight and at night, that is in rooms with air-conditioning or mosquito nets attached to windows and doors and those with fans.

For tours in the country, or if camping out, carefully select sites for sleep. Try to keep away from stale waters, ditches and water barrels. Also try to avoid traveling in high-risk areas during the rainy season.

You can buy toiletries almost anywhere in the world, often for less than it costs it home.

You may . . . → Read More: Toiletries]]>

You can buy toiletries almost anywhere in the world, often for less than it costs it home.

You may have your favourites, however, and not every brand is available overseas (sometimes there are worse, sometimes better alternatives). You can’t always be sure of the quality, either.

For these reasons you might consider bringing your own.

Space and weight can be saved by taking small, travel- or trial-sized bottles, or better still, buy some small, refillable plastic bottles and containers and fill them with your own products.

Liquids can weigh a lot, and a lot of bottles of liquids can weigh a considerable amount.

You also have the problem of leaking, although this can be made better by putting the bottles in a leak-proof plastic bag. There are non-liquid alternatives for most toiletries, some of which are listed below.

Starting at the top of the head and working down:

Hair

Shampoo generally comes in liquid form but you can get it in a bar (like soap) which is lighter, more compact, and more leak-proof than regular shampoo.

Don’t take a huge bottle, you will probably have to carry it around with you for ages before you make a dent in its contents.

Soap

Soap comes as a liquid and a bar. You can also get universal soaps that wash hair, clothes, and crockery. You can buy soap anywhere, too, all you need worry about is something to carry it in.

Teeth

Some people cut the handle off their toothbrush to make it lighter for travel, but this saves so little weight and it is annoying to use, so it’s really not worth it.



However, you should get toothbrush covers, which are very useful if your brush is squashed into your bag every day.

Floss is essential, not just for your teeth, but for other uses such as thread, tying up things, cutting food (like a cheese-wire), emergency shoelaces, a clothesline, and so on.

Shaving

You can either use nothing (just hot water), or just soap to shave with, but both of these are hard on your skin.

You don’t need to take a large can of shaving foam as there are smaller, lighter alternatives, such as shaving oil.

Cheap plastic razors can be bought anywhere, but a good travel razor is the AVID razor, which is cheap, light, and works well.

Deodorant

Comes in non-liquid form as deodorant sticks, which also come in small, travel sizes. Available everywhere.

Nails

Standard nail clippers are fine, stainless steel are better. You can use toenail clippers (straight, or slightly convex) as regular nail clippers (usually concave) if you don’t want to take both. Be aware that if you take nail scissors they might not be allowed in your hand baggage on some flights.

Mirror

Don’t take glass mirrors, there are so many good (lighter and unbreakable) alternatives made of plastic (acrylic) you can buy these days, such as the Coghlans Plexiglass Mirror

Towel

Towels from home are heavy and bulky. You don’t need something that large anyway, a thin hand towel is fine, even one cut in half can be used in most situations.

You can get some made of synthetics (viscose, for example) which are very absorbent for their size and weight.

Tie/scarf/bandana

A wool scarf can be very effective in cold weather but can be bulky. You can always buy . . . → Read More: Middlewear]]>

Tie/scarf/bandana

A wool scarf can be very effective in cold weather but can be bulky. You can always buy one wherever you are if it gets too cold.

A good substitute is something like a bandana or a sarong, or maybe a towel or just buy a thin locally bought scarf. This can also help vary your outfits as it makes a good accessory.

A cotton bandana is probably the most versatile for not only can it serve as a neck or head scarf, you can use it for a cravat/tie, a hat or headband, sun shade or sleep mask, a mini-curtain in a bus or car, napkin, handkerchief, dust mask, tablecloth, mat for sitting on, towel, washcloth, bandage, tourniquet, cold compress, short cord, pot scrubber, or a small carrying sack.

Shirts

Counter-intuitively, the more covered up you are in hot weather the cooler you can be. Loose, light, long-sleeved shirts will keep you cooler than wearing t-shirts (or bikinis). They will also protect your arms from sun and mosquitoes.

Not only this, in some countries bare arms are considered immodest for both men and women. You will also look more presentable at border-crossing and other formal occasions.

Two or three long-sleeved shirts (or blouses for women) and a couple of short-sleeved shirts should suffice (and remember, you can always roll up the sleeves on a long-sleeved shirt). They should be comfortable, washable, and look good even when dirty.

A cotton-polyester mixture is best. You won’t have to iron them and they can be washed and dried easily. Collars can be pulled up to protect your neck from the sun, and buttons can be undone for when it is hot or buttoned up when it gets colder.

Any colour other than white should be fine as these will show less dirt. Also, the more robust they are the more they will stand up to the sort of vigorous washing you may sometimes do (or have done) down at the river.

A great shirt that you can wear in any climate is the Craghoppers Nosquito Long Sleeved Shirt (shown right). This has mosquito repellent and an anti-bacterial treatment built in, as well as protection from the sun (SPF 40+).

It can be washed in the sink or a machine and is quick drying (and there’s no need for ironing). It also has a secret, zipped security pocket. I have two of these shirts, in Stone and Khaki colors and I am very pleased with them.

I also have a shirt from Coolibar. This is an American company that brings Australia’s approach to sun protection to the US market. Their sun protection products block 98 percent of the sun’s ultraviolet rays.

Another good idea is to take a heavier, long-sleeved shirt in flannel or heavy rip-stop cotton which can be used instead of a sweater, especially when it gets cold, almost like a thin jacket. These are more durable and protect against the sun and insects better than thinner fabrics.

T-shirts

Very useful and fashionable at home, maybe not so much when travelling. They can sometimes be hot and, if too tight, can be constricting, so if you must take them make sure they are loose-fitting and light-coloured.

Sweater/jumper/cardigan/hoodie

A warm sweater is essential travel equipment. Even in the hottest climates you will probably need one when it gets cooler in the evenings. Choose a fine-woven wool over a bulky-knit.

A cardigan (or a thin hoodie) is good for layering, and can be used as a substitute jacket at a pinch.

Jacket

Can be useful if you anticipate more formal occasions and some companies make special travel jackets (Tilley and TravelSmith, for example).

Trousers/pants

Two pairs of trousers should be enough. Take one pair for general, everyday use that is tough enough for hard, dirty travel, and a second (just as tough) pair that can be used for walking in cities, at border-crossings and customs, public offices, and more formal occasions.

Try to buy a lightweight cotton or cotton-polyester mix and choose a fit that is not too tight. They should weigh under one pound (454g) each, and should be easy to wash and dry quickly.

One of the best pairs of travel trousers you can buy (and one which I own) is Craghoppers Kiwi Trousers (show left). Like the Craghopper’s shirt above, they have UV protection, as well as a water repellent finish. They are easy to wash and dry and don’t need ironing. As worn by Michael Palin on his world travels.

I also have a pair of Rohan Cargos (non-convertible). These are anti-bacterial treated, are windproof, protect against the sun, and have zippered security pockets.

Travelling with jeans, however, is not such a good idea. They may look good but they are heavy (about 1.5 pounds (680g) a pair), bulky, are hard to wash, and take forever to dry. They are also pretty hot to wear in the tropics. If they are tight against your skin then you will also be vulnerable to insect bites.

Shorts

Very popular these days with travellers are trousers with zip-off legs which convert them to shorts or capris (sometimes both). They are probably quite useful, and can certainly cut down the number of items you have to carry by one, but anything with extra zips will mean more things to break or go wrong.

You also have to find somewhere to stash the extra bits when not in use (and make sure they don’t get lost). And, when used as trousers, they just look like shorts with bits zipped onto the bottoms, so they may not be suitable for the fashion-conscious. Better to take separate trousers and shorts (and anyway, swim trunks can be used as shorts if necessary and are a lot lighter).

Craghoppers make Kiwi Zip Off Trousers in which the legs zip off making them into walking shorts.

Be aware that shorts that show lots of bare leg (on men and women) can be seen as indecent in some places (or even effeminate for men in some countries!) and for women can invite unwanted attention.

Long trousers protect your (lower) legs from the sun, poison plants and thorns, cuts and scrapes, bugs and insects, and hot (and cold) metal bus parts, things that shorts don’t often do.

If you must wear them, find shorts that are as tough as your trousers and loose-fitting. Mid-length (just around the knee) are a good compromise, not too short, not too long.

Skirts

Worth considering for female travellers as they are good around town in hot climates and for areas where trousers on women are considered inappropriate (in some Muslim countries, for example). They are also cool, comfortable, compact, and easy to wash and dry. They should fall far below the knees to be acceptable in most places.

Belt

Nylon or canvas are best as they dry quickly and don’t rot in humid conditions like leather. Don’t use a cheap plastic belt, and try to make sure the buckle is of reasonable quality.

I wear an Eagle Creek all terrain money belt (shown right), which is good quality and has the added advantage of a hidden money compartment on the inside.

Sarong

Worn all over Asia and the Pacific, this is a length of thin cotton cloth a few yards/metres square. Like the bandana, it is another multipurpose item. You can use it as a temporary wrap on the beach or hotel corridor, a shawl, hat, sheet, towel, bag, curtain, pillowcase, tablecloth, blanket, shorts, trousers, skirt, and a mosquito defence.

The Medical pages list the various diseases and vaccinations available. This section gives information on where and when to . . . → Read More: Vaccinations]]>

The Medical pages list the various diseases and vaccinations available. This section gives information on where and when to get them, how long they last, whether you need boosters, possible side-effects, and so on.

Don’t rely on the information given below. Try to get to a specialist travel clinic, or seek advice from a qualified professional.

Some clinics will give you a free consulation, other charge a fee (usually refunded if you then have the vaccinations at the clinic).

In the UK you can get vaccinations from your GP (usually for free), or go to one of the specialist travel clinics, such as the Nomad Travel Clinics, or The Hospital for Tropical Diseases in London.



Or do a basic search on the Internet in your country to find one. For example, this website has a list of directories for other countries, including the USA.

Check the Links – Websites page for more links to health information by country.

Remember to start your vaccination programme at least six weeks before departure.

Polio

How – usually given as a childhood vaccine. Recommended every 10 years for travel to areas outside of Europe, Australasia or the Americas.

When – anytime before departure.

Tetanus

How – a routine childhood vaccine. Boosters needed every ten years for travel to areas where immediate treatment may not be available, or after a cut or injury.

When – anytime before departure.

Diphtheria

How – a routine childhood vaccine. Boost every 10 years.

When – anytime before departure.

Hepatitis A

How – vaccination protects initially for one year and then a further injection boosts immunity to 20 years, possibly life.

When – two to four weeks before travel.

Hepatitis B

How – a course of vaccines is required, three injections over six months although more rapid schedules can be done for those leaving with less time available.

When – ideally six months before travel.

Typhoid

How – available as a single shot or as a combined vaccine with Hepatitis A. Provides approximately 80% protection for three years.

When – two weeks before travel.

Yellow Fever

How – vaccine with immunisation lasting for 10 years.

When – 10 days before travel.

Meningitis A, C W135 and Y vaccine

How – vaccine covering four strains of Meningitis.

When – two to three weeks prior to travel.

Japanese Encephalitis

How – a course of three vaccines.

When – six weeks prior to travel.

Rabies

How – a course of vaccines over one month. Further treatment is still required after a bite but both reduces the amount of treatment needed and changes the treatment required. In some developing countries there are no guarantees as to the quality or availability of treatment.

When – four to six weeks before travel.

Tick Borne Encephalitis

When – six weeks prior to travel.

Cholera

How – a course of two oral vaccines. Gives 80% coverage for two years.

When – a minimum of three weeks prior to travel.

Take any travel insurance information you’ll need if you have to make a claim while travelling. This would include . . . → Read More: Insurance]]>

Take any travel insurance information you’ll need if you have to make a claim while travelling. This would include the company’s claims telephone number and a checklist of things you may need to provide when calling (like the plan code, travel dates, the date the insurance was purchased, and so on).

There are many providers of travel insurance. I use American Express but others include STA Travel, where you can get travel insurance from just £8. You can also get free travel insurance quotes from AIG Travel Guard. MultiNational Underwriters sell international health insurance for as low as 70¢ a day.

Below is a list of just some of the books that I have bought and found useful on . . . → Read More: Books]]>

Below is a list of just some of the books that I have bought and found useful on my travels. I usually read these before I leave and try to memorise as much as I can, as carrying even just one book with you when you travel adds considerably to your load. (That said, I do carry the first book on the list with me as it is tiny).

To be honest, these days I tend to listen to audio books on my iPod mainly, as I can fit a considerable number of books onto it and listening in this way also keeps your hands free when walking around. You can buy these online or in major bookstores on CD. Just search online for audio books.

(Click for US supplier) (Click for UK supplier)

Travel Health

Bezruchka, Stephen. The Pocket Doctor: A Passport to Healthy Travel. Mountaineers Books; 3 edition (March 1999). The classic reference for international travelers – completely updated.

Dawood, Richard, M.D. Travelers’ Health: How to Stay Healthy All Over the World. New York: Random House, 1994. With six hundred pages of advice from sixty British and American travel medicine specialists, this is the most complete travelers’ health guide.

Dessery, Bradford L., and Robin, Marc R. The Medical Guide for Third World Travelers: A Comprehensive Self-Care Handbook. San Diego: K-W Publications, 1992. This is a good health guide by two nurses with practical experience.

Schroeder, Dirk G. Staying Healthy in Asia, Africa, and Latin America. Chico, CA: Moon Publications, 1993. Another good travelers’ health book.

Equipment

Fletcher, Colin. The Complete Walker. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1984. Dubbed the “hiker’s Bible,” this is a highly detailed look at the gear and philosophy of a wilderness backpacker who has also written several other books.

Working Abroad

Griffith, Susan. Teaching English Abroad. Oxford: Vacation Work, 1994. This is over three hundred pages on the subject, including numerous personal accounts. Distributed in the U.S. by Petersen’s Guides, Princeton, NJ (tel. 800-338-3282).

Communication

Hall, Edward T. The Silent Language. Garden City, New York: Anchor Press/Doubleday, 1959. A groundbreaking work on nonverbal communication.

Pei, Mario. Talking Your Way Around the World. New York: Harper & Row, 1971. Interesting reading on languages by the popular linguist, although you won’t quite be speaking Indo-European come page 288.

Miller, Stuart. Understanding Europeans. Santa Fe: John Muir Publications, 1990. This is an incisive book by an American former professor of European comparative literature who has lived and worked extensively in Europe. It also helps you understand Americans.